My favorite self drafted skirt with flounce

I love pencil skirts, particularly when they hit mid calf.  I think this style flatters women in all shapes and sizes. There is something about a modest skirt fitting closely to the shape of the body.  And when worn with heels...watch out.  I just know that whenever I need a feel good, no brainer, outfit I go for a straight pencil skirt.

In the last 2 years, I have made several dozen of said skirts.  I've made most of them in scuba or knit type fabric because they are so easy to make and comfortable to wear.  Scuba (like bathing suit material) travels well and is surprisingly not hot in the summer.  It wicks moisture, never wrinkles, and looks great.  Also, if you have a steady hand, you don't have to hem this fabric.  I've used my rotary blade to make an even cut.

I added a flounce to this skirt just above the knee.  It also has a very comfortable yoga waist. Another alternative is that it can be simply sewn with elastic at the waist.  There are many tutorials out there but here are several that are easy to follow:

Crafterhours

Me Sew Crazy 

Made Every Day

Note the hem is unfinished.

Sources:

Nasty Woman t-shirt

Calvin Klein jean shirt

Necklace and bracelet by lcdmodern - coming to site soon

Marion Parke Mitchell shoes

Note the yoga waist band - easy and comfy.  

The flounce begins just above my knees - 

good for walking, running, jumping for joy.

Day 14 of #sewvember - Tricky

This was my first foray into sewing sequin material.  It really wasn't that difficult.

I came across this fuchsia reversible sequin fabric several weeks ago.  I originally talked myself out of it but couldn't stop thinking about it, returned to the store, and bought more than I'll ever use.

I decided to play it safe and sew a simple pencil skirt.  I used a favorite skirt as a pattern and added 3" elastic at the waist.  The tricky part was removing sequins along my seam lines before stitching.  It took me some time to get used to how and where to remove the little buggers.  And it made a bit of a mess.  Another option is to sew right over the sequins.  I tried that with one seam and it came out bumpy, so I decided to stick with removal.  I used my serger.

I'm hoping to wear it to our upcoming office holiday party with this stretch velvet top (also self drafted and sewn).  I've finally found an outfit to wear with my velvet Tory Burch pilgrim shoes.  Their chunkiness takes the prissy out of the sparkly skirt, in my opinion.  I can't wait to wear this outfit.

Day 8 - Winter: Self drafted kimono jacket - #bpsewvember

I joined a sewing photo of the day challenge on Instagram this month.  The hashtag is #bpsewvember.  For those of you who might not be on Instagram, you can google the hashtag and click images to see the postings.I joined knowing that I'd pick and choose my days but today the theme is winter and I had just the item to share - my self drafted puffy kimono jacket.

I often buy my fabric because I love it and not because I know what I'm going to do with it (this is how out of control fabric stashes are born).  Last year, I found puffy material at Joann's and grabbed it.  I drew up a very simple pattern (essentially 3 rectangles) and made this cropped jacket.  I used my serger and decided to expose the stitching side which gives it some detail and highlights its square structure.

I love wearing it with a turtle neck and jeans or a pencil skirt.  It is roomy and warm yet not too hot to wear.  It's almost like throwing a scarf on to run around town.  Here in Reno it starts out cold in the morning but ends up warm early afternoon so this is the perfect run around town solution.

Are you participating in #bpsewvember?

Pattern review - the Marjorie empire waist dress by Love Sewing Magazine

I just finished this dress for my "little sister's" (Big Brother Big Sister) quinceañera this coming weekend.  This is a FREE pattern from the UK Love Sewing Magazine.  I think I first saw it on Pinterest and was surprised it was a free pdf pattern.  Of course, you have to create an account on their website.  The one caveat is that there are no instructions.  You have to buy the particular issue in which it was featured to get the instructions - totally fair.  If you are an experienced sewer, you can easily put this dress together.

I worked methodically to get a good fit with this dress, trying it on and altering it each step of the way.  I love the end result.  I really like the vintage silhouette:  the empire waist, gathers, and A line skirt.  What I didn't like in the end were the sleeves.  They were slight bell shaped and much longer.  I felt like the dress needed to show a bit more skin so I shortened and narrowed the sleeves.  I used a beautiful woven blue stretch linen and viscose fabric by Theory from Mood Fabrics (seems sold out).  

I'll be honest, when I first put this dress on, I felt it was a bit Handmaid's Tale.  However, I decided to try it with a few different pairs of shoes and the outfit completely changed.  

Shoes, Shoes, glorious shoes.  They are a weakness of mine.  These are 5" stilettos by SJP (SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker).  These shoes are beautiful and I don't get to wear them often.  They are tall.  I plan to wear them to the quinceañera mass earlier in the day.  The second pair (which I'll wear to the reception) are from Zara.  They are made with an interesting tapestry fabric and have a much lower heel.  They'll be very comfy and dance friendly.

Lastly, I love putting my own label into the clothes I make.  It adds both a personal and finishing touch to the garment.  I have labels left over from my previous business but you can get personalized labels from Etsy or simpler ones at your local fabric/craft stores or Amazon.

What is your favorite dress silhouette? 

My current favorite pattern - The Lois Dress Pattern by Tessuti Fabrics

One of the first PDF patterns I made was from Tessuti Fabrics.  It was also my first foray into downloading free patterns from the internet.  Tessuti Fabrics is based in Sydney, Australia, and is known for its beautiful linen fabrics and clothing patterns that are simple and stylish.  There are a number of free PDF pattens on their site that I highly recommend adding to your collection

I'm always on the lookout for dress patterns that will flatter but also be versatile.  The Lois dress was recently released and fit the bill so I bought it and put it in my sewing queue.  Last week, I finally had a chance to spend a few days piecing together the pattern and listening to podcasts (specifically Lovett or Leave it and With Friends Like These - both by the Crooked Media).  BTW, pattern piecing and podcasts in my guilty pleasure.  It is a form a meditation to me whereas years ago, any pattern preparation would have resulted in me pulling out my hair.

I decided to make a muslin with this pattern as I was certain I'd be making several of these and wanted to get a sense of fit and flexibility.  In doing so, I found that I could get away with no side zipper and simply slip the dress over my head.  I also noted the skirt was a bit fuller than I liked in the stiffer muslin fabric (drape being stiffer in the muslin).

The result is this dress that is so comfortable and easy to wear. The fabric is a viscose from Mood Fabrics (yes, Project Runway's Mood) which is currently on sale for $11.19/yard.  It drapes beautifully and I love the abstract design.

I didn't have quite enough fabric for the skirt which worked to my advantage.  I placed the skirt pieces together so that the waist remained the same measurement but graded the back seam to fit my fabric yardage.  The result is that the fullness of the skirt was taken in quite nicely.  So, this all worked to my advantage.

I can't wait to make this dress again.  I'll likely make a slightly smaller version into which I'll place a side zipper, too.

For my beloved nerdy friends...please note the adorable tardigrade on the dresser of the first photo.

REMINDER:  My first class - Garment Construction 2.0 - the Scout Tee - is happening tomorrow at Sierra Sewing in Reno.   Last I heard is was filling fast.  I have another class in November, so if you are interested, please sign up.

Teaching Garment Construction 2.0 this fall

I'm teaching 2 classes this fall at Sierra Sewing in Reno:  Garment Construction 2.0 - October 10 and November 11.  We will be making the Scout Tee by Grainline Studios.  Details and sign up here.

What is the 2.0, you may ask...

By definition I mean the next big thing, version, or interpretation of sewing:  PDF patterns, hacking, tutorials, experimenting.  Sewing is becoming popular again and the internet has brought a community together making it easier to be inspired and learn.

Sewing has evolved just as everything else in life.  While I learned to sew from my mother, 4-H,  and home economic classes (yes, I realize that dates me), those "opportunities" aren't readily available anymore. Young people are learning to sew online through Project Runway, youtube, and indie sewing bloggers.  Many are not learning the formal skills but rather "hacking" store bought items and creatively piecing together all kinds of wearable items.  It's all good!

Frankly, I rebelled against all my teachings and even ran a business refusing to "do things by the book."  I created my own patterns and taught myself techniques that worked for me.  Creativity should not be hindered by any means.  When I didn't have a sewing machine in college or couldn't afford all the tools and notions I needed to make something, I hand stitched and pinned together my outfits.  I hated to follow patterns and mutilated my creations into submission - some wearable and some not.

But, after 40 odd years of sewing, I decided that it was time for me to follow a pattern from beginning to end - no altering or deviating from instructions.  Honestly, it was painful.  It was an experiment in patience, self-control, and maturity.  I'm not exaggerating, it was tough.  The result was surprising.  First came a tremendous feeling of accomplishment, then the realization that basic skills (by the book) made my sewing so much better.  My understanding of basic garment construction has exceedingly improved.  For the first time in my life I'm actually wearing outfits I'm making from patterns.  What was most helpful to me was that every time I got stuck, I could find a video online or a tutorial on a blog.  I found shortcuts via other people's mistakes...all at my fingertips.  I could print out PDF patterns at home w/out venturing to the fabric store.  BTW, I love PDF patterns as piecing them together is very therapeutic to me and helps me understand what I'm sewing before I start.  I hate flimsy tissue patterns because they rip easily and are a pain to store. I also love the immediacy of printing patterns at home.

So, Garment Construction 2.0 means combining what we know with the current technology and creativity that abounds.  Not limiting ourselves to "old school" teachings but exploring "new world" opportunities.  There are workshop and lab spaces popping up in cities.  There are places where people can come together to not just sew but create in all mediums.  There are places where you can rent machines and space if you don't have either at home.  These new places become communities of learning and sharing.  I want to share my enthusiasm with others and reinforce that there are no limits.

What limits are you pushing?

The Katie shirt dress by Sew Sew Def

I love how sewing has evolved online.  Great indie designers are creating simple and basic patterns that are very easy to sew and alter.  For me, the ability to immediately download a pattern has been rewarding.  Often, I get inspired and want to start creating without running to the fabric store.  PDF patterns, although labor intensive, can be purchased and taped together for immediate use.  I've made the process somewhat therapeutic by listening to podcasts or music while methodically piecing together the patterns.  Let's be honest, tissue patterns are really no less labor intensive and very flimsy.

The Katie dress, a free downloadable pattern by Sew Sew Def Magazine, is a casual button-up shirt dress with bell sleeves and an a-line shape.  It has pockets (always a plus for me) and is quite voluminous making this dress comfortable for every day wear.

I used a blue chambray fabric that I purchased from JOANN Fabrics.  This was my first foray into collars and button plackets but the instructions were easy to follow.  The only change I made was I took out quite a bit of volume after I initially completed the dress.  I just couldn't pull off the full volume look, so I removed at least 4 inches on both side seams.  Wouldn't this also make a cute top for jeans?  I'll be making several more versions in the future.

Be sure to scroll through the photos using the arrows on the image:

My new fall uniform. Scroll for more views. Additional info on blog (link in profile). The #katiedress by @sewsewdefmag (@mimigstyle) #sewalamode #sewing #handmade

A post shared by Sophie, Lola & Zeus (@thedemersdogs) on Sep 15, 2017 at 9:23am PDT

What are your favorite online patterns and/or designers?

Sewing with color

I just finished this sheath, Vogue #1544, which will go into cocktail rotation as soon as the weather cools a bit.  The standing collar makes the dress feel a bit more appropriate for fall weather.  What I like about shapeless dresses like this is that it is so comfy but, if styled right, can still be very stylish and sexy.  I'll wear this with a great pair of slinky heels and chunky bracelets.

Since I primarily buy clothes in black, I tend to buy fabric in colors.  This is a deep purple crepe I had in my stash.  Unfortunately, I don't remember where I purchased it.

Changes I made:  I didn't add the lining because I like to wear slips with the dresses and find most linings annoying.  I didn't add a zipper because the neck opening was large enough to slip the dress over my head.  More importantly, I opt for no zipper any time I can because I'm too lazy to run to the store to buy one.  In many cases, a zipper isn't needed especially in dresses that aren't body hugging.

Overall, I'm pretty pleased and will certainly wear it which is what matters most.

Are there shortcuts you use when sewing?

A post shared by Sophie, Lola & Zeus (@thedemersdogs) on Sep 7, 2017 at 3:57pm PDT

Sewing dresses for spring and the year of the statement sleeve

I can't seem to stop sewing dresses, particularly summer dresses.  I'm clearly longing for warmer weather, backyard parties, and cocktails on a terrace.  So here are two of my latest finished projects:

I don't typically go for romantic details.  I mostly lean toward very tailored and minimal design.  However, the current "statement sleeve" trend (#yearofthesleeve) has my attention.  Flounce, bell, long or short, I can't resist this fun new detail.

The Burda pattern (Flounce Dress 12/2016 #107) turned out better than I thought it would.  I was certain the pleat and flounce detailing would push my perfectionist button to the point of no return.  It really taught me to slow down and take one step at a time.  I was pleasantly pleased with the result.  I used a beautiful crepe fabric from Mood Fabrics.  The drape and weight is perfect and will make this dress fun and comfortable to wear.  I did have issues with the pattern sleeves (as did another reviewer) and re-designed them to match the flounce detail.  I also didn't want to add a zipper so I left a 5" opening and added a pearl button and thread loop.  I think this detail is better than a zipper for this dress.

Next up...

I can tell Butterick B5211 is going to be a favorite.  It's a casual sheath dress with pockets and a few sleeve variations.  I can see many different hacks to this pattern in the future.  This dress was made with blue coral and oxford tan diamond printed polyester crepe from Mood Fabrics.

Again, I opted out of putting in a zipper and added a pearl button with thread loop.  It makes the dress lighter and adds a delicate detail to the design.  Also, zippers are time consuming and I never have enough in my supply.  So, full disclosure, I was too lazy to run to he fabric store.

As for the sleeves...the stitching on the elastic hems were visible so I tucked and tacked them under for a more pronounced balloon effect.  Add some funky wedge heels or strappy flats and this dress will go from dinner out to backyard party easily. Now, I just need an occasion to wear it.

I'm fairly new to the online sewing community (mostly on Instagram), so don't hesitate to introduce yourself. I look forward to meeting you.

Been sewing

Well, as predicted, I have been very slow at getting back into this blogging thing.  I've sewn many things since last I blogged.

As part of the project #sewmystyle (mentioned in my last post), I've made two tops:

1)  For January, I made the Toaster Sweater 2, by Sew House 7.  This is a lightweight scuba knit with a sequin applique.

A post shared by Sophie, Lola & Zeus (@thedemersdogs) on Jan 29, 2017 at 9:46am PST

2)  February's #sewmystyle project was the Saunio cardigan by Named Clothing.

A post shared by Sophie, Lola & Zeus (@thedemersdogs) on Feb 26, 2017 at 10:10am PST

I'm officially behind in the #sewmystyle project and should have sewn some leggings for April. I know I'll get to them but my inspiration turned to summer dresses which I'll post soon.

Project #SewMyStyle - Oh, and hello.

Hi there!  It's been a while, I know.  For those who know me, I'm coming back to the blog slowly and under different goals (yet to be determined).  For those new to my blog, I'm happy to make your acquaintance.

Once upon a time, I was all over the internet.  So much so, that I was sick of myself.  I am no longer on Facebook or Twitter.  But you can find me on Instagram,  @TheDemersDogs, if you are interested.  My dogs have a bigger following than I do there. I'm also on Pinterest and YouTube (see icons in sidebar).

I'm back on the blog because I'm participating in Project #SewMyStyle in the coming year.  I'll be making a new garment each month with a group of other sewists from around the world.  I thought I'd post about my adventure as I go.  You can learn more about the project on Bluebird Fabric's website. You can also follow along on Instagram with #SewMyStyle.  We'll be posting our projects at the end of each month starting in January.

Although I've sewn most of my life and even had my own business, I never truly followed patterns.  I made my own patterns or reconstructed and deconstructed clothing and accessories.  In the past year, I've forced myself to read and follow patterns thoroughly.  This is a big deal for someone who generally bucks being told what to do.  It made me slow down and enjoy the process more.  And, of course, my sewing has improved leaps and bounds.  Oh, and I bought myself a serger which has been a game changer for me.  

Sew...so, I'm back and we'll see how and where this takes us.

Season's Greetings!

Twirl - by Crafted by Lindy - Fab Finds from Etsy

Top to Bottom, Left to Right

1. Vintage inspired floral skirt - Mokkafiveoclock

2. POLKA DOTS SKIRT - jenfashion

3. Chinese ink and wash painting layered skirt - idea2lifestyle

4. Tea Length A Line Sweetheart Halter Wedding Gown - bridalblissdesigns

Top to Bottom, Left to Right

5. l'Ingenue...a Strapless Natural Linen Wedding Dress - TheQuietHouse

6. Be cheery with Ocean Blue Dress - LadyTA

7. All Around The World Part II...Dark blue Cotton Harem Pants - aftershowershop

8. Lilybrush triangle collar black dress - lilybrush

[Lindy lives in Alberta, Canada, with her husband, son and daughter. Besides blogging, she enjoys running her stationery business and creating new designs for her Etsy shop. You can read her own blog here]

I so need to sew!

I really need to make new bags. I have some really great designs on paper and in my head, but I need to get them made. I'm finding the last few weeks of summer hard to make progress in this regard. I want to hang out with the kids, my Dad is visiting from the Midwest, and I'm wanting to get as many more days in the sun as possible.

On another note, I learned yesterday that a former colleague of mine is on Etsy. We worked together some 7 years ago in Chicago. She now lives on the west coast. Isn't it funny how small the word becomes on the Internet?!

jljay - jay design

Hump Day Humor

Others have found this funnier than I have...