My current favorite pattern - The Lois Dress Pattern by Tessuti Fabrics

One of the first PDF patterns I made was from Tessuti Fabrics.  It was also my first foray into downloading free patterns from the internet.  Tessuti Fabrics is based in Sydney, Australia, and is known for its beautiful linen fabrics and clothing patterns that are simple and stylish.  There are a number of free PDF pattens on their site that I highly recommend adding to your collection

I'm always on the lookout for dress patterns that will flatter but also be versatile.  The Lois dress was recently released and fit the bill so I bought it and put it in my sewing queue.  Last week, I finally had a chance to spend a few days piecing together the pattern and listening to podcasts (specifically Lovett or Leave it and With Friends Like These - both by the Crooked Media).  BTW, pattern piecing and podcasts in my guilty pleasure.  It is a form a meditation to me whereas years ago, any pattern preparation would have resulted in me pulling out my hair.

I decided to make a muslin with this pattern as I was certain I'd be making several of these and wanted to get a sense of fit and flexibility.  In doing so, I found that I could get away with no side zipper and simply slip the dress over my head.  I also noted the skirt was a bit fuller than I liked in the stiffer muslin fabric (drape being stiffer in the muslin).

The result is this dress that is so comfortable and easy to wear. The fabric is a viscose from Mood Fabrics (yes, Project Runway's Mood) which is currently on sale for $11.19/yard.  It drapes beautifully and I love the abstract design.

I didn't have quite enough fabric for the skirt which worked to my advantage.  I placed the skirt pieces together so that the waist remained the same measurement but graded the back seam to fit my fabric yardage.  The result is that the fullness of the skirt was taken in quite nicely.  So, this all worked to my advantage.

I can't wait to make this dress again.  I'll likely make a slightly smaller version into which I'll place a side zipper, too.

For my beloved nerdy friends...please note the adorable tardigrade on the dresser of the first photo.

REMINDER:  My first class - Garment Construction 2.0 - the Scout Tee - is happening tomorrow at Sierra Sewing in Reno.   Last I heard is was filling fast.  I have another class in November, so if you are interested, please sign up.

Teaching Garment Construction 2.0 this fall

I'm teaching 2 classes this fall at Sierra Sewing in Reno:  Garment Construction 2.0 - October 10 and November 11.  We will be making the Scout Tee by Grainline Studios.  Details and sign up here.

What is the 2.0, you may ask...

By definition I mean the next big thing, version, or interpretation of sewing:  PDF patterns, hacking, tutorials, experimenting.  Sewing is becoming popular again and the internet has brought a community together making it easier to be inspired and learn.

Sewing has evolved just as everything else in life.  While I learned to sew from my mother, 4-H,  and home economic classes (yes, I realize that dates me), those "opportunities" aren't readily available anymore. Young people are learning to sew online through Project Runway, youtube, and indie sewing bloggers.  Many are not learning the formal skills but rather "hacking" store bought items and creatively piecing together all kinds of wearable items.  It's all good!

Frankly, I rebelled against all my teachings and even ran a business refusing to "do things by the book."  I created my own patterns and taught myself techniques that worked for me.  Creativity should not be hindered by any means.  When I didn't have a sewing machine in college or couldn't afford all the tools and notions I needed to make something, I hand stitched and pinned together my outfits.  I hated to follow patterns and mutilated my creations into submission - some wearable and some not.

But, after 40 odd years of sewing, I decided that it was time for me to follow a pattern from beginning to end - no altering or deviating from instructions.  Honestly, it was painful.  It was an experiment in patience, self-control, and maturity.  I'm not exaggerating, it was tough.  The result was surprising.  First came a tremendous feeling of accomplishment, then the realization that basic skills (by the book) made my sewing so much better.  My understanding of basic garment construction has exceedingly improved.  For the first time in my life I'm actually wearing outfits I'm making from patterns.  What was most helpful to me was that every time I got stuck, I could find a video online or a tutorial on a blog.  I found shortcuts via other people's mistakes...all at my fingertips.  I could print out PDF patterns at home w/out venturing to the fabric store.  BTW, I love PDF patterns as piecing them together is very therapeutic to me and helps me understand what I'm sewing before I start.  I hate flimsy tissue patterns because they rip easily and are a pain to store. I also love the immediacy of printing patterns at home.

So, Garment Construction 2.0 means combining what we know with the current technology and creativity that abounds.  Not limiting ourselves to "old school" teachings but exploring "new world" opportunities.  There are workshop and lab spaces popping up in cities.  There are places where people can come together to not just sew but create in all mediums.  There are places where you can rent machines and space if you don't have either at home.  These new places become communities of learning and sharing.  I want to share my enthusiasm with others and reinforce that there are no limits.

What limits are you pushing?